The 2019 Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Beaune 'Le Clous' comes from the older vines in the titular vineyard that were planted at some point before 1953. This has a complex bouquet with vibrant red fruit, undergrowth and pressed rose petals. It was a little reduced but the quality still comes through. The palate is satin-like in texture on the entry, pitch perfect acidity, modest depth but just so crystalline towards the finish. This is a quite brilliant wine from Boris Champy, a portent for what this oft overlooked region can and will achieve more regularly in the future. Drinking window: 2023-2036. Score - 91-93. (Neal Martin, vinous.com, Dec. 2020)