Here's a lovely, fragrant and complex Gran Selezione, savoury in the regional idiom, with typical dried herbs and tart red fruit, fresh and dried, though remarkably not baked despite the extreme heat of the 2017 vintage, one in which the wines largely seem to defy the conditions of the season. The palate is bone dry and firm, succulent and savoury with excellent density and complexity, also length. A terrific vintage in the final analysis for this classic wine, best now-2030 or so. Score - 93. (John Szabo, MS, winealign.com, March 2022)